Bliss in Bahia

Strokes, Style & Sanctuary on Salvador’s Coast

All Photographs Courtesy of ©Terravista Golf CourseTerravista Golf Course

To Californians it’s Pebble Beach. To Georgians it’s Augusta. Each state has its pearl, that one course golfers wait their whole lives to play. For some it’s the history—reading the same green where Tiger captured his first major victory. For others its tradition—the engraving of the Claret Jug in golf’s oldest tournament. But for most it’s tangible—the breathtaking view that can only be described when seen with your own eyes. Fortunately, the state of Bahia does not disappoint. Whatever your reason, golfers who travel to South America will find several gems scattered along Brazil’s historic coastline.
 

Located in the south of Bahia, the Discovery Coast is the landmark where the Portuguese first arrived in Brazil in the 1500s. Its lush landscape, rich history and vibrant people overwhelm the senses. The vast clear waters of the Atlantic reveal gradient hues of blues and greens. Waves crash against the burnt orange Transcoso cliffs hoisting the Terravista Golf Course. Its web site boasts that Terravista is, “The most exclusive and sophisticated tourism and real estate enterprise in Brazil.” Accomplished architect, Dan Blakenship, strategically placed the course between the verdant Atlantic rainforest and the sandy beaches. The front nine offers holes that reflect the dense landscape of the rainforest. The layout is straightforward, but properly placed tee shots are essential to hitting the green in regulation. Errant aggressive shots are met with blind looks at the green and tight angles that force you to lay up, as the fairways are crowded with trees. Terravista’s longest par 5 is the 626 yard 5th. Its wide fairway is tempting to reach the green in two for a prime chance at eagle. However, its bottleneck landing area and skyscraper trees may force you to play it safe

Manicured Bermuda grass greens and fairways wrap around this 7,212 yard terrain.  As you make the turn you’ll find the signature par 3 14th. It represents the essence of Terravista. Perched right off the cliff, the view makes it difficult to execute the task at hand—leaving with a par. At 216 yards, this alluring green calls for a decisive club choice as the winds tend to change frequently. The three-tiered green puts your putting to the ultimate test. Imagination, confidence and pure guts are needed for any chance at birdie. After a long round you can fine tune the quirks in your swing at the 350 yard driving range or with lessons at the Terravista Golf Academy. 
     
It’s easy to get caught in the rapture of Bahia. “Take off your watch and let Bahia take you away,” says a local tour guide. It’s a simple command to follow in this lively state. After walking down the cobble-stoned streets enjoying the classic acaraje or taking a ride on All Saints Bay in Salvador, you deserve an escape. Looking for a course that surpasses all expectations? That’s Terravista.

Comandatuba

For the most exclusive golf experience there is only one choice in Bahia—the Comandatuba Ocean Course. Here, Dan Blakenship’s vision of “listening to nature” is evident. The ocean breeze flows from the Atlantic, refreshing and, at times hindering. Here on the island of Comandatuba, a 30 minute flight from Salvador, golf enthusiasts and vacationers alike will find the ultimate retreat. Enjoy succulent chocolate from the Cocoa Coast, while witnessing some of the world’s most exotic creatures.

Consistently crowned one of the best courses in Brazil, the Comandatuba Ocean Course harmoniously combines natural beauty with a modern aesthetic. No need to fear hitting approach shots out of U.S. Open rough. White sand surrounds the 18-hole Bermuda grass fairways that stretch nearly 7,000 yards. Although remarkably beautiful, the Ocean Course presents a challenge. Its 72.9 slope rating prompts subjects to place shots with precision. Gusts of wind that blow from the Atlantic tend to change the direction of the ball flight within a matter of minutes. The Ocean Course calls for a low trajectory ball flight and a knack for creativity. Built on marsh lands and parallel to sandy beaches, Comandatuba entices the senses. 

Those who choose to venture south will find that the Ocean Course hails as, “One of the most sought after golf destinations in the world.” It opens with a par 4 dog-leg that sets the tone for your round. You can hear the call of the Pearly Parakeet or the Little Blue Macaw from above while reading the break on the difficult greens. Undulations and pin placements force you to look at the hole from every conceivable angle before trying your hand at par. Countless sand dunes decorate the fertile landscape, rivaling the Old Course. Twelve lakes are dispersed throughout this championship course, making club selection and alignment top priority.

Aside from the golf course, travelers can enjoy more than 80 sports and leisure activities, private beaches, and the heavenly L’Occitane spa. The Cocoa Coast is also known for its dedication to the preservation of natural wildlife. More than 50% of the vegetation found on the Cocoa Coast is limited to this region. Tired of the serenity and need an adrenaline rush? Go canoeing or climb down Itacare’s powerful waterfalls.

Ask any local and they will tell you, “It’s well worth the trip.” This luxurious haven offers private bungalows with ocean front views, jewel colored birds and the ultimate seclusion.   

Convento do Carmo

On a clear day in Salvador, the Convento do Carmo Hotel’s clean, white façade virtually absorbs every ray of sunlight. It needs no neon-lit signs to gain your attention. The 16th century architecture welcomes the traveler juxtaposition to the bustling neighborhood of Pelourinho. This converted friary offers silence once you cross the deep mahogany threshold. The trade winds from Baia de Todos os Santos (All Saints Bay) cool the other open areas of the hotel and a dazzling assortment of trees provide shade poolside. This ambiance is made for sandals and that light sigh of relief experienced as you close your eyes. Historic beauty aside, the Convento do Carmo is equipped with all of the luxuries for the modern vacationer.

Convento do Carmo’s 79 rooms reflect its storied history. This spectacular array of rooms is at your disposal. A light, airy mood is best reflected in the hotel’s signature suites which offer stunning views of all points Salvador. Is the sun too much of an annoyance? Convento do Carmo can accommodate. The suites with warmer motifs boast newly restored high wooden ceilings that amaze the eye and a bed of Egyptian cotton that soothes the body. The bathrooms are getaway all unto themselves. Deep bathtubs and wide showers are just the beginning of this therapeutic experience. No matter the choice of room, each comes with Wi-Fi Internet and LCD televisions.

Convento do Carmo’s menu is authentic to the overall appetite of Bahia. Filleted and lightly buttered fish along with braised and grilled beef are just two of the exquisite choices found on this impressive menu. Fresh-from-the-stalk vegetables are made into masterpieces by a culinary team that understands perfection. The wine list is impressive and suits with any dish of your choice. Both Portuguese and Brazilian influences are present down to the magical variety of desserts. Come prepared to dine with your pinky finger raised.

The Gran Hotel Stella Maris
This historical delight is located in the middle of Salvador and offers beauty around every corner.  Convento do Carmo is one of the best luxury hotels in Brazil. In a state that is focused on building its next resort, this hotel links Bahia’s beautiful past with its lush modernity. Style is eternal and the Convento do Carmo Hotel is timeless. 

The Gran Hotel Stella Maris is an oasis. It is almost too good to be true. The breathtaking sight of the Atlantic Ocean’s turquoise hue, spacious and trendy accommodations and Bahian delicacies will make you make you drop your heavy luggage in awe. Located 30 minutes east of Salvador, this 334 room resort offers guests their personal slice of serenity and the service expected of a five star hotel. One of the reasons this hotel should be your choice while visiting in Bahia—the beach. The waves come in heavy and beckon surfers and beachgoers alike to test the water. It is an alternative to the beautifully constructed pool that is within steps of the beach.

The rooms of the Gran Hotel Stella Maris are phenomenal. With your choice of Deluxe, Master or Presidential Suites, there is no such thing as a lackluster stay. All rooms offer the finest in comfort with more than enough space to stretch out and relax. Each bed feels as if it was made especially for you and the crystal clear LCD televisions compliment the beach decorum. If you’re looking for more space, the lazy hammock on the balcony will suffice. The hotel is excellent for vacationing with the family or some much needed down time with your significant other. Beyond the beach, beds and balconies, the activities are endless at the Gran Hotel Stella Maris. The state-of-the-art fitness center awaits the weekend warrior and the health club serves up tranquility to the tensest of individuals.

Experiencing new foods is a must on any international trip. The chefs at the Gran Hotel Stella Maris are poised with a buffet to excite your taste buds from dawn to dusk.  Breakfast is a mixture of fresh fruit, breaded treats and other Bahian favorites. Both lunch and dinner courses mirror the cornucopia of rich fish, succulent chicken and tender beef that Salvador is known for. After dining, the bar is ready to take the edge off. No matter your drink, they have the mixture to carry you out to the lobby’s balcony to the evening breeze. With American Airlines unveiling of non-stop service into Salvador’s Deputado Luís Eduardo Magalhães International Airport, this slice of heaven is closer than you think. The best time to visit Salvador is during the summer months, from December through February. Then again, everyday is paradise when you’re staying at the Gran Hotel Stella Maris.  

Iodice
Fashion unites. No matter the language or the locale, the feel of fabric against the skin is the same. For instance, nothing compares to the warm embrace of well crafted knitwear. Funny enough, some of the world’s finest knit ensembles trace their roots to the sun-baked cobblestones of Bahia where Valdemar Iodice got his start. How’s that for imaginative design? It’s little wonder Iodice’s collection of knits was so well received when he premiered it at the 1995 Andrenalina Fashion Show in Sao Paulo. An auspicious beginning to say the least and the decade since has confirmed that Iodice deserves to be doused in fanfare. His latest collections thrive on light fabric and eye-catching palates that salute his Brazilian and Italian heritage. This is ideal street-wear for metropoles scattered along the equator and high fashion climes that worship the sun from a distance. Why wouldn’t it be available from Bahia to Beverly Hills?         

Ira Salles
Parsons School of Design strikes again. Ira Salles, may not be the best known alumnus, but she is among the most talented. After working for Carolina Herrera, Salles returned to Bahia to craft her own footwear, handbags and accessories animated by the chiaroscuro of Brazil’s indigenous embroidery. By merging modern durability and detailed, century-old crochet patterns, Salles has become a favorite of celebrities such as Naomi Campbell and Luana Piovani. Though her clothes are available in the US, Japan and France, it’s always best to return to the source to find these treasures. Salle’s Bahian studio is the premier site to discover this homespun couture.