The Seasoning of Fellowship

One region’s undying loyalty to its favorite scavenger

In other parts of the country, Old Bay is the rarely used seasoning that sits amongst the other spices in the pantry collecting dust. It’s only used when someone wants to add flair to those dull french fries or to dress up that bland piece of salmon. In fact, it’s safe to say that the slightly pungent smell of this Mid-Atlantic delight means very little to a novice. Now give that same container to anyone born and raised in Maryland, Virginia or Washington D.C. and they’ll see it as the final stroke of beauty to any summer dish. This aromatic melody of paprika, ginger, cardamom and bay leaves helps to give a bushel of crabs that smoldering red tinge. Once the coating of seasoning and shell is cracked with a small wooden mallet, the true prize appears—the crab meat.

An outsider can only gawk at the many dishes this crustacean-loving region creates using this luscious white meat. Soups, casseroles, salads, bisques, quiches and even muffins are a handful of recipes passed down from one generation to the next.  And as the summer weather exceeds record digits, so do the local markets and eateries. Baltimore’s Lexington and Cross Street Markets, Washington D.C.’s Wharf and the Virginia Beach Seafood Market are overrun with residents and tourists partaking in the seasonal harvest of the Chesapeake Bay and Eastern Shore. Regardless of your upbringing, fellowship is evoked over a steaming heap of crabs. Stories are spun as the cracked shells rest on sheets of the local newspaper. These patrons know the taste of top-of-the-line crab. So it comes as no surprise that they would shake their heads in shame at a crab dish not made with the true regional meat. Unfortunately, the charlatans are outweighing the masters. No other recipe has been pushed down the line of chefs more than the crab cake.

From Seattle to Sao Paulo, Miami to Melbourne, Boston to Barcelona, Los Angeles to London and Kansas City to Kyoto, the crab cake has been dressed up and messed up.  Luxury restaurants try to present over breaded crab cakes doused in a million flavors while claiming its authenticity. Some of these chefs even have the nerve to use imitation crab meat to “add texture” to the dish. Blasphemy! Needless to say, these chefs would be facing a life sentence if they were caught performing this fraudulent act within the borders of Maryland and Virginia. The remedy is simple—less is more.

The crab cake’s immaculacy is found in its preparation. The meat has to remain tender and the seasoning should never overpower, but only compliment the experience within each bite. Deep or pan-fried, the coating must reach that golden to dark brown hue. Once you’ve tested this beautiful cake, garnish it as you see fit—melted butter, spicy brown mustard, cocktail sauce, etc. If you or a loved one feels that you’ve been duped into eating a lackluster crab cake, take I-95 to either Maryland, Virginia or Washington D.C. and go to thefollowing restaurants. Please, don’t let these crabs die in vain!