In The Spirit

Akvavit 101

(page 1 of 2)

When Christmas is celebrated in Scandinavia, two components of revelry are constant. One of the constants, of course, is food — those powerful fat- and salt-laden specialties of the high latitudes’ festive season.

The other constant is akvavit. Though virtually unknown in the United States, akvavit (also known as aquavit or akevitt) is a distilled spirit which typically contains approximately 40% alcohol by volume (80 proof). Of the same lineage as vodka and gin (i.e., derived from grain or potatoes), akvavit dates from the 16th century and is flavored with a number of botanicals — chief among them caraway (Carvum carvi; this component lends akvavit its strong rye flavor) and dill (Anethum graveolens), but also anise, fennel, coriander, and others. The exact proportions are specific to each brand or label and define the flavor of each.

As with many distilled spirits, akvavit’s name is derived from the old Latin aqua vitae. Different nations have different designs as to what comprises their specific “water of life”; in Norway, for instance, akevitt must be aged in wood (like whisky or cognac) and distilled from potatoes. Danish and Swedish akvavits are distilled from grain.

Akvavit is usually clear to golden brown, but color isn’t necessarily an indication of quality or age. Color (e.g., caramel) can be added and other factors contribute to the spirit’s hue. Many akvavits are aged in oak casks (often those previously used to store sherry from southern Spain), but for far less time than whisky single malts, and seldom more than a few years (Linie, for example, spends 16 months in casks – see sidebar – and varied Gammel varieties are allowed to mature up to 26 months), but 12 year-old akvavits are not entirely unheard of. Many distillers also release Yuletide akvavits, the recipes of which are changed slightly each year to make these special seasonal offerings unique from year to year.

Though fairly uncommon outside of Scandinavia proper, akvavit can be found throughout the world, particularly in regions with sizeable Scandinavian communities (e.g., northern Germany, the U.S., and Canada). Small North American distillers, such as Okanagan in British Columbia and North Shore Distillery in Chicago, contribute to the drink’s survival and exposure outside its native ground. This recent crop of North American varieties tend to stay true to one style or another while paying homage to the traditional Old World recipes adding New World components.

In the Old World, Scandinavia is and was defined its linked cultures and by the sea. Akvavit’s strong, spicy flavor cleanses one’s palate rather abruptly, and given the significance of the sea’s bounty (unique and powerful fish dishes are a staple of the Scandinavian diet) and the trading history of the region (e.g., the spice trade) one understands the place akvavit held — and continues to hold — in all of it.

Skål!