The Vitals are Coming!

The Garrison's Home-grown Revolution

by Karina L. Arrue

garrison, new york is a delightful little town tucked away in the Hudson Valley. Given its old-world charm, (and according to The New York Times, its residents’ affinity for dirt roads ), I didn’t think this would be the locale for any present-day revolutions, but I was wrong; there is indeed one underway.

It’s a culinary revolution of sorts, taking place at The Garrison, a property that has had several incarnations since the 19th century. Today it is a luxurious retreat for golfers and nature-lovers alike ( see sidebar ), but what interests me the most is the dining and the Eat Local philosophy that drives the enterprise and its two restaurants, The Valley and The Terrace Grill. The Garrison supports the local economy and nurtures the environment by sourcing as many products as possible locally and sustainably in the most delicious ways. In fact, they are so committed to this vision that when I asked co-chefs Brandon Collins and Vin Mocarski what their favorite item on the menu was, they had a difficult time picking because their menu is so seasonally dictated it changes constantly. I guess eating what the earth has to offer when it offers it is not such a new idea after all, but in a day and age when our food travels thousands of miles before it hits our plates, what The Garrison is doing is, in a word, revolutionary.

tgm: What is your approach to cuisine?
brandon: We try to find the freshest, best ingredients possible and showcase the flavor of our food instead of covering it up. [For example], a pristine fish—we won’t cover it up in a butter sauce. [We have a popular ] red snapper dish [ that is cooked in ] a miso broth—not insanely overpowering but it enhances the flavor.
vin: Due to seasonality, the menu changes. We have a lot of repeat customers and we don’t want them to get bored.
brandon: We have an organic farm of two acres. In the beginning of the year we sit down with Brian Bergen, our organic farmer, to discuss what needs to be grown. [ This year, we decided we wanted] black radishes, gooseberries and cape gooseberries (which ended up not working out because of the weather ), different varieties of potatoes, tomatoes and lettuce.

tgm: What do golfers at The Garrison normally eat to power through a round of golf?
brandon: They mostly eat at the Terrace Grill, which is more casual. They’re usually looking for a good burger, chicken wings and chicken fingers. We also provide some healthier items like turkey sandwiches, salad—stuff that they can pick up very quickly.

tgm: What’s your favorite summer recipe from the menu?
brandon: The red snapper dish, cooked in miso broth and served with a soba noodle cake and pickled vegetables. Nice.

tgm: What’s your favorite part about being a chef at The Garrison? 
brandon: I really enjoy doing what my job entails. I enjoy getting to cook [and having] conversations with farmers. There’s nothing better.
vin:We’re all hands-on; there are no line chefs here. [We enjoy] getting produce fresh—not just off the back of the truck—and being able to prepare it anyway we want. The creative license to throw ideas back & forth [is important ].