Three's Company

The wonderful triumvirate that is the US Virgin Islands

Time after time history has proven that the motion of the universe operates under the direction of three fundamental principles. Number one, never bet against the under dog; number two, gravity works, and number three; good things come in threes.

There is a particular set of three that does deserve some special attention: St. Croix, St. John and St. Thomas. Though each island possesses an elegance and natural beauty that makes each notable unto itself, the trio’s glorious beaches, rich heritage and vibrant streets pulse with the rhythms of calypso, soca and reggae that are second (or third) to none.

Throughout their long history the U.S. Virgin Islands have possessed a unique quality that captivated explorers from England, France, the Netherlands and Spain. Upon his second voyage to the Americas, Christopher Columbus claimed to have discovered the islands in 1493, despite the presence of Carib, Arawak and Taino natives who had migrated there from the South American continent one thousand years before. They remained in a constant state of war with the Spaniards for nearly a century. By 1596 the islands were described by the remaining settlers as being uninhabitable. In the early 1600’s the English and Dutch made their first attempts at being civilized by settling on separate sides of the island, yet conflict between the two colonies was inevitable. The Dutch suffered under the will of the powerful English forces until 1650. A Spanish fleet then descended on the island of St. Croix from Puerto Rico and massacred both English and Dutch settlers. Later in that same year, the French succeeded in capturing St. Croix with only two vessels, but their attempts at establishing a colony proved to be most disastrous. Infectious diseases claimed the life of two-thirds of their population.

In 1733, after a series of failures by several European nations, the Dutch sold St. Croix to the Danish West India & Guinea Co. for $150,000. With the hope of avoiding the failures of their predecessors, the Danes encouraged immigrants from other nations to come and populate the island. Under this new plan the sugar plantations, St. Croix’s most valuable export, thrived. Due to sugar cane’s growth in tropical zones and high demand in the European market, the Dutch’s gains were immense. The Dutch success story, though all roses for a time, was later thwarted by the rise of the sugar beet, an alternative to sugar cane that could be grown in Europe. With a staggering local economy and a slave population that outnumbered the free citizens, the stage was set for an era of unrest that would bring about complete change across the region. For Denmark the islands became an expendable asset, which they sold to the United States of America in 1917 for $25 million.

Today’s Virgin Islands have a much different social climate than that of the tumultuous past (though the meteorological climate is still stuck on perfect. ) Tourism is now the primary source of income for the island’s inhabitants. A place that was once described as uninhabitable is now commonly referred to as unimaginable or unmatched. Pristine blue waters, powdery white sand beaches and a cultural landscape that blends German and West African traditions make the US Virgin Islands an international experience that is not to be missed in one’s life time.

ST. JOHN

St. John is the smallest of the islands and still retains the tranquil, unspoiled beauty that attracted so many world travelers in the past. St. John blossomed into a thriving society after initially being scouted as a premier sugar cane producing colony. The ruins of the Annaberg Sugar Plantation and other smaller plantations are now some of the best sights on the island if taking a glimpse into the past is of interest.

Sugar cane farming has done little to affect the natural beauty of St. John. Its unspoiled forests and stunning beaches attract the attention of sun seekers the world over. Trunk Bay, Hawksnest Bay, Cinnamon Bay, and Maho Bay are just four of the dozens of beaches. Cruz Bay, the center of activity on St. John, contains colorful shops, lively bars, and fabulous restaurants. It is the perfect way to start off the day; swimming, sunning, shopping and then feasting on some of the freshest seafood you will ever encounter. Two-thirds of St. John comprises the Virgin Islands National Park, featuring fascinating trails, secluded coves, and of course more dazzling blanc beaches. For those in touch with their inner Indiana Jones the Reef Bay Trail takes hikers through dense forests, plantation ruins, and rock outcroppings marked by well-preserved petroglyphs.

ST. THOMAS

St. Thomas Island combines the natural beauty of the Caribbean with a sophisticated cosmopolitan atmosphere. Charlotte Amalie, the capital of the U.S. Virgin Islands, is not only one of the most beautiful harbors in the world but also the most visited port in the Caribbean for good reason. Elegant dining, exciting nightlife, and world-class duty-free shopping overflow in Charlotte Amalie. The city’s reputation as the shopping mecca of the Caribbean draws visitors from all over the region and the rest of the world. The mountainous landscape of St. Thomas offers stunning views in almost every direction from 1,500 feet above sea level. While Charlotte Amalie is full of new world energy, St. Thomas also provides the natural wonders that define the Caribbean experience such as the beautiful Magens Bay and Drake’s Seat, which is particularly famous for its vistas. Sports and activities are abundant on St. Thomas. Golf enthusiasts will enjoy the George and Tom Fazio-designed Mahogany Run course. St. Thomas is also well known for its world-class yachting and sport fishing.

ST. CROIX

St. Croix is the largest of the US Virgin Islands, stretching for a total of 82 square miles. The two most interesting towns to visit are Christiansted and Frederiksted. The architectural quality and historic significance of the one-time Danish West Indies capital have made part of Christiansted a National Historic Site. Though legendary, it is not without its modern conveniences. There is an abundance of shops filled with French perfumes, china, crystal, batik clothing and jewelry. Just off shore is Buck Island, one of the world’s finest dive spots. Frederiksted is also a great area to pick up quality goods. Together these islands make St. Croix an exceptional portion of a US Virgin Islands excursion.

NO TIME LIKE TEE TIME

If teeing off seems a better way to pass the time than shopping, diving, dancing and just being, prepare yourself for the oft-distracting backdrop of sun, sand and sea. Configured by world-acclaimed designers and played by dignitaries from around the world, the courses on St. Thomas and St. Croix cater to golf enthusiasts who love to ‘play’ while they play.

St Thomas Golf Course: Mahogany Run

This Tom Fazio-designed par-70, 18-hole course overlooks the Atlantic with a view of the neighboring British Virgin Islands beyond. Most spectacular is the Devil’s Triangle—a trio of holes so challenging that golfers who manage to play through them without a penalty shot earn a prize from the pro shop. Overall, the course has rolling hills, tropical valleys and beautiful greens, thanks to a recently completed multi-million dollar renovation that included a brand new irrigation system, recently regrassed greens and renovated bunkers.

Tee times have an excellent availability rate, and informal scratch tournaments are held throughout the year to give visitors a chance to put their skills up against local players with hometown course knowledge. Three-day special packages are available to golf enthusiasts who may need a few rounds to adjust. Groups are welcome and special tournaments complete with prizes can be arranged. Luckily there is no need to lug clubs from home; you can take advantage of Mahogany Run’s Callaway rentals.

St Croix Golf Course

Buccaneer Hotel

Set on the grounds of a former sugar plantation and located just east of Christiansted, the Buccaneer Hotel is an island within an island, offering one of the most extensive rosters of activities on St. Croix. The 18-hole golf course takes players over sloping hills, right to the brink of the Caribbean Sea. Golf pro Tim Johnston is on duty full-time and welcomes all newcomers. An early breakfast on The Terrace, with views to Christiansted Harbor, makes a great way to start a round of play. But don’t get too relaxed.

Carambola Golf Course

Nestled in the valley at the northwestern section of St. Croix is a premier course built by Laurence Rockefeller. Robert Trent Jones is responsible for the amazing design of Carambola Golf Course. Since opening thirty years ago, the Carambola has been rated as one of the finest golf resorts in the world. The par-70 course snakes its way through a deep valley, full of water hazards in the form of spring-fed lakes. Bright tropical foliage might leave you thinking you’ve stumbled into a secret garden of delights. But the rolling terrain and nearly 100 bunkers will quickly snap even the most seasoned dreamer back to reality. Four sets of tee markers and ample landing areas make Carambola a golf course players of all skill levels can enjoy.

It is clear that similar to the legendary Treacherous Three, these islands have every angle covered. Nature has spared no expense in making one of the most spell-binding and unique landforms on earth. In the US Virgin Islands no one asks you why it is that you came because everyone knows what it is that makes you want to stay.